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Long sleeves and curved bust seams give the compact silhouette a clean architectural line
Rei Kawakubo designed the house's main line throughout this period — a run of single-concept collections marked by abstraction
Drawcord gathering runs through the body and hem
A blazer from Marc Le Bihan
and pattern-cutting treated as concept rather than convention
Yohji Yamamoto 1991FW Coat Long sleeves and curved bustA coat from Yohji Yamamoto's Autumn Winter 1991 collection. Yohji Yamamoto has led the house since its founding. The season belongs to the 1990s, when the house language matured into tailored deconstruction and drape led cutting in a monochrome palette. Coats of this era favour soft tailoring and menswear references carried into the work.
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